Modern Minimalist Nightstand

Bored of flimsy nightstands? Are the latest designs from your local Swedish furniture house just not "right"? Want something that will outlast you and can be made moderately inexpensively with minimal tools?

I found myself answering "Yes!" to all of these questions, and that's why I designed and built this nightstand.

Key features:

1. Cost-competitive: I made this for ~90 Euros
2. Minimal tools: no large workshop is required
3. Durable as heck: You can easily jump on this nightstand and it will not care

Warnings:

1. To build this you will need a 3D-printer and knowledge of how to use it!
2. You will need to order aluminum profiles from somewhere!

Attached is a CAD-file, which can be used as something of a "guiding star". It is mostly complete, but does not contain all fasteners.

Tools

I have grouped the tools you will need to complete this project into three categories: I completed it with the "required" tools, however there are steps which I "outsourced" which you can do yourself if you have more tools (nice-to-have category). Technically, this project can be completed with only the tools in the "absolutely required" section, but it will be a lot more work, especially the sanding of the wood.

Absolutely Required:

1. Basic screwdrivers/hex keys
2. Sandpaper
3. Paint roller
4. 3D-Printer

Required:

1. Handheld Drill (and common bits/drills)
2. Handheld orbital sander
3. Jigsaw

Nice-to-have:

1. Router with 45° chamfer bit
2. Circular table saw or similar
3. Drill press

Parts

Below are the parts required to make one nightstand.

Wood:

1. 36cm × 36cm × 15mm multiplex (high quality plywood), for top surface
2. 29cm × 14cm × 12mm multiplex (high quality plywood), for drawer face
3. 2 times 22cm × 9,5cm × 4mm plywood, for drawer sides
4. 21,7cm × 9,5cm ×4 mm plywood, for drawer back
5. 21,7cm ×22cm × 4mm plywood, for drawer bottom

Aluminum Extrusion:

1. 4 times 50cm long 30x30mm aluminum extrusion, anodized black
2. 4 times 26cm long 30x30mm aluminum extrusion, anodized black
3. 4 times 26cm long 30x30mm aluminum extrusion, with D11 holes on both ends, anodized black

Hardware:

1. Handle of your choice. I used these LINK as I also used them on other bedroom furniture
2. 8x 30x30 aluminum profile quick-connectors,
3. 24x M6x12 Machine screws and T-slot nuts (DIN912)
4. 8x M4x10 Wood screws
5. 4x M3x16 Machine screws (DIN912)
6. 8x M3 threaded heat-set inserts LINK
7. 2x M6x8 countersunk machine screws, for power-strip holder.
8. A whole bunch of small M2x4 wood screws, LINK
9. Drawer slides. I used these LINK

Consumables:

1. Black filament for 3d printer. I recommend the strongest material you can print with, eg. Link to ASA
2. Hardwax oil. I used Saicos, LINK. Stuff is expensive, but it is worth it.

Extras:

1. I added this powerstrip behind the drawer for powering lamp, phone charger, etc. LINK

You will need to 3d-print a variety of components:

1. 4x CornerBrace - These hold the top surface to the frame
2. 4x UConnector_Base - These hold the sides and the drawer-slides (install 2x M3 Inserts)
3. 4x UConnector_Lid - These hide the screws used to attach the UConnector_Base parts
4. 2x LidMount - these help connect the drawer to the front of the drawer, Print one mirrored!
5. 2x EdgeConnector - Frame elements of drawer, Print one mirrored!
6. 2x CornerBit - Optional, hide the corners but not necessary
7. 1x RearBeam - Frame element of drawer
8. 2x UpperBeam - Frame elements of drawer
9. 2x DrawerBottomRail - Frame elements of drawer
10. 2x PowerStripHolder - Optional, holds the power strip I used
11. 2x GridCover - Optional, but looks nice and hides drawer slides

For most of these, the print orientation should be rather straightforwards and doable with minimal supports.

Pictured: Hard-wax oil drying on the boards. I made two night stands at the same time

Acquire the wood as outlined in the "Supplies" section. Then, perform the following steps:

1. Cut a 20mm radius round on every corner of the 36cm × 36cm × 15mm multiplex board. Repeat this for the drawer face, so the 29cm × 14cm × 12mm multiplex board. I did this by first tracing a quarter circle line, and then using the jigsaw to rough cut it. After that, I used the orbital sander to get the round perfect
2. Add a 1.5mm chamfer to the top and bottom edges of the top board and the drawer front. You can use a router with a chamfer bit to do this, or do it with the orbital sander (that's how I did it).
3. Sand the faces. For the hard-wax oil to work properly, you want smooth (and dust free!) surfaces.

Now you're ready for applying the hard-wax oil. This takes a bit, but the result of properly applied hard-wax oil is an absolutely fantastic surface which is so water-resistant that water dries on it before being absorbed into it (you don't need to use a coaster, even for cool drinks).

The process of applying it goes like this:

1. Apply a thin coat using the paint roller. Do both sides, and the edges.
2. Let dry for at least 5 hours, maybe more
3. Sand the whole thing again with a high-grit sandpaper (>240) so it gets smooth again and make sure to clean off the dust
4. Repeat: Apply another thin coat, let dry, sand again, and apply a final thin coat.

Depending on your wood and what hard-wax oil you are using, you might need between 3 and 5 applications for a great surface.

Acquire your aluminum framing. I ordered from a supplier that cut me all the lengths to size and even drilled the D11 holes for the quick-connectors into the 30x30 profile (I used "Bosch Nut-8" size). Then, perform the following steps:

1. Build A-Frames:

Using four 50cm pieces and four 26cm pieces with the D11 holes on each side, use the quick connectors to build two "A" shapes, as pictured. The inner distance should be 11cm.

2. Connect A-Frames

Using the 3d-printed "UConnector" components along with your M6 screws, attach the four other 26cm aluminum pieces as pictured.

3. Install Corner Braces

Now, using the "CornerBrace" components, install them in the top corners so that the wood panel can eventually be attached to these.

Now it's time to build the drawer. Do so using the various 3d-printed components along with the M2 wood scrwes to attach them to the wood panels.

For additional strength, a small amount of super-glue can also be applied. Here, the major strength comes from the lid-mount parts, as the small M2 screws only really hold when a lot of them are used and they don't go very deep into the 9mm thick front panel.

Next, install the drawer slides. Depending on which model of drawer slide you got, the holes in the UConnector may not line up, but at least one hole should. The second can then be attached by drilling through the 3d-printed material, or using a smaller T-Slot nut in one of the aluminum extrusions.

IMPORTANT: Making drawers move properly and align is difficult. Make sure that you carefully align both slides, and give yourself "wiggle room" to adjust the drawer after you have installed it. Many slides have slot-shaped holes, so you can loosen the screws you use to hold it and adjust the position before tightening it down again.

This is also the step where I added in the power strip in the back using the 3d-printed clips.

All you need to do now is attach the top wood, and the decorative side cover panels if you opted for them, and then you're done!